You can see in the smoke generated video that it matches the airflow simulation as anticipated. If you want to see some test results for the Bullseye check out my Youtube channel Bullseye Playlist. These are structural parts and need to be strong, especially the mounting points. Could add it with slicer. For the old v2 bases without the nut capture fasteners are as follow: You'll need to replace the short 3mm stock front screw with a 3mm x 25mm socket head screw.
Re-use one of your short 3mm screws from stock fan base if you are using the Stock Fan Duct. Seems it's readily available at the hardware store To mount the duct to the base I used 3mm x 8mm socket head screws. Since none of this mount touches the hot or cooling end of the Micro Swiss or stock hot end you could print this with PLA.
This mod incorporates 2 separate, enlarged plenums with a balance port in between. The balanced port adjusts the positive pressure within each duct to produce a balanced airflow from each out-port.
It is designed for. Files have the Dualfan in the name and will fit the corresponding bases. Dualfan should be used with a Volcano Hotend for best performance. It is adjustable by 10mm so it should fit a lot of dial gauges.
It tucks the dial gauge right close to the X rail and really works well. Added 1mm height adjustment to ducts. Files are at the bottom of the files page. I will be moving them to their own page once all testing is done.
You can see it here. I reviewed my files and they were right. I have adjusted those files and they are uploaded.Hello, I recently bought an E3D V6.
I bought a double 12V fan for installation. My problem starts when I connect the dual fan in series to the layer fan terminal and it doesn't work.
Use a buck converter to supply 12v, and then connect both fans in parallel Should be black to red so you end up with a black and red then red for pos black neg.
So fan 1 black not connected red fan one to black fan 2 red fan 2 not connected then connect black from fan 1 and red from fan 2 to motherboard keeping polarity right.
I would not recommend connecting a pair of 12v fans in parallel to a 24v source, as they both will still pull 24v volts. I would have them wired in series, so they split the supplied voltage. In turn they will both pull roughly 12v each. This is the difference with parallel and series connections.
Though it is possible for them to still pull more than 12v in a series wired setup, for example there are times when on my pull v, inadvertently pulling the additional volts from the other fan cause it to be undervolted. I personally have my 12v noctua hotend fan ran to a pcb board I made for multiple connections, which in turn is connected to a buck convertor dropping the voltage down to Personally I recommend rewiring the fans to a series connection. How this is done is by connecting the positive from one fan to the negative of the other.
Then take the negative and positives that are not connected to each other, and connect them to the source of power to receive the proper voltage the proper way.
You have to connect the fans in Parallel if you are using 12 volts power supply. I hope you understand the concept :. Yes, ender 3 uses a 24V power supply. But the dual 12V fans Thats my problem. Are you able to connect the stock parts fan and have it work?
If not there could be something up with your MCU controller board. Are you replacing the fan for a reason other than modding and using a different parts cooling duct? Or did it take a shit on you and needed to be replaced so in turn you decided to upgrade them and the parts cooling duct? Are you positive they are connect properly in the JST connector that connects to the board?
If unsure do you have a multimeter so you can check the continuity of the wiring on the fans, power from the board. If the fan port is supplying the proper voltage, are the fan actually getting power from the board?
Can show how you are connecting your dual fans on terminal.? Series conection of dual fan 12V? Carline89 Jul 30, Fans work independently Any suggestion?First of all, I understand that fans are better, but I happen to have another fan laying around so. That said The fan that came with my Ender 3 has blue and yellow wires.
The second has red and black wires. First I connected the red wire from the second to the yellow wire of the original Connected the black wire of the second to the blue wire of the original They both worked with the original fan blowing out air, but the second seemed to be sucking in air. I tested with a piece of paper. This time the original fan worked as usual, but now the second fan does not work. Can anyone help with the proper way to wire two fans to the Ender 3?
Oh, the fans are 24V. The middle diagram is right, and once it's wired up again like in the diagramyou just have to unmount the left fan, turn it around so it is blowing out not sucking inthen remount the left fan so it's still blowing out, and Bob's your uncle!!
Oh man! I never would have thought of turning the fan.
5015 High Speed Sealed Bearing Fan (12V)
Makes sense now that I think about it. And, of course, all the pictures show that. That's what happens when you do stuff in the wee hours of the night. No problem. I know what it's like to be so tired, the solution staring right at you, but you can't see it.
Been there many times Glad to help Actually the duct only allows the fan to be mounted one way. Maybe it's that way with the Choose a file. Save Review. Save Question. Save Video. Save Photo. Show everything Show all reviews Show all questions Show all videos Show all photos Show helpful positive reviews Show helpful negative reviews Show unanswered questions.
Timothy Hoogland — June 21, Here at TH3D we use these on all our 12V machines that have fans which is most of them. They have been going strong for over a year now with no issues. The cheaper ones from Amazon or eBay lasted about months before they failed. Something wrong with this post?
Thanks for letting us know. If you can point us in the right direction This post was Flag for removal. Save Comment. Other than that the fan works great. Timothy Hoogland — July 21, Antony verified owner — October 13, Jeff — October 18, Tim Hoogland — October 19, Gabriel Bruno verified owner — August 12, Had problems with part cooling on my stock CR set-up.
Currently order shipping is delayed due to a death in the family of our main packing person. Orders will be delayed days. Facebook Twitter Google Instagram. Typically red is positive and black is negative but some of the Chinese printers to not adhere to these standards. There is no list of what machines use what as it can vary from model to model and we have even seen differences in wiring colors used in the same printer models.
Our fans use red for positive and black for negative.Posted in 3D Printers. Hello Guys! I had different experience than him, and the fans did make a difference in my prints. I wondered if these guys with the larger fans are getting any real good use out of them, or if it was just a sham. I decided to purchase some fans, and try the upgrade. It also requires you to use the Hero Me 2 base and fan mount, since you cannot install a on the stock hotend fan covers. The first thing you want to do if you are planning to perform this upgrade is to attempt and print out the Hero Me base and Fan Mounts.
Once you are happy with your Hero Me 2 mount, you can move on to ordering the fans you need for the mount that you printed out. I purchased a two pack to have a spare for the future, or if I decided to upgrade to dual fans. Below is a link to the two pack 24V fans. Once your fans have arrived and you are ready to make your installation, you will disable the printer by turning off power.
Disassemble your hot-end fan shroud by removing the 4 bolts in the part cooling fan, and then you remove the two round head bolts holding the fan shroud to the gantry.
Once the cover is loose, you will need to remove the 4 bolts inside the hot end shroud to take the hot-end fan loose.
Next you will have to install the Hero Me 2 base piece make sure your base lock or ABL mount is in placeit will slide down over your gantry mount plate, make sure you are careful of your wiring. Once the base is mounted, you can install your hot-end fan to the base with your 4 bolts.
One hint I will share is to improve the strength of your strain relief for your wiring is to find a small piece of hose that is close to the size of your wires, cut a slit in it and put around the wires before you zip-tie them like below.
This will prevent your wires from spinning in the strain relief. Now you will have to decide if you are going to remove all the shielding from your cables and lengthen the fan cables, or take the easier route and cut the yellow and blue wires near the old fan.
I installed the fan with some M3 bolts, and began my test prints. I will say that some profiles will take some tweaking to get back printing, I had to adjust how soon the fan went to maximum and I also reduced the maximum. I will share my Cura cooling profile below for you to try if you are running into problems. Great write up found it useful. But the stock fan was working just fine before so any advise will be welcome. Did you wire it up to the same place as your previous fan?
And did you make sure you ordered the 24V fans? Otherwise, you will need custom firmware and then you can modify in the firmware configuration the setting listed below:. Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Posted in 3D Printers 3 Comments.
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Save Video. Save Photo. Show everything Show all reviews Show all questions Show all videos Show all photos Show helpful positive reviews Show helpful negative reviews Show unanswered questions. The TH3D team only selects the best parts. This is why these fans are selected as well. There is some whine initially but partnered with the fan fix from the TH3D unified firmware that is gone instantly.
Something wrong with this post? Thanks for letting us know. If you can point us in the right direction This post was Flag for removal.
Save Comment. So you need a fan? This fan is the fan I adapted for my Artiller3D sidewinder. The stock fan is like a fart in the wind, and this fan is like a hurricane. Get this fan. Tim Hoogland — December 10, Glad you like the fan!Creality's Ender 3 is a good budget 3D printer and rightfully popular, but I guess everyone owning it can confirm:. This guide will show you how to use 12V parts in a 24V print, replace the fans and install a new duct for part cooling from both sides.
Big thanks to Noctua for providing me with some of their high-end silent fans and 2print3D for sending me an new board after the Y-Driver died on mine unrelated to this project! For this guide, I used the BantaMount Beta from bantam. Dual 40mm Fans is used from here on, if you choose something else or Blower fans, adjust accordingly.
I used Noctua fans for this project, because they are well-known to be almost inaudible and a silent printer was the ultimate goal here for me. Their OmniJoin Adapter Kit that comes with the FLX versions of the fans saves us time by reducing the required soldering points and lets us use a regular fan plug, so we dont have to modify the Noctua fans them self. The Ender 3 runs on 24V, but our fans are only rated for 12V. The Noctua fans have a 3-Pin connector, but our Ender board uses 2-Pin fan sockets.Upgrading the Creality Ender 3 with Duet Wi-Fi, and other add-ons - part 1
The first problem can be overcome by implementing Step Down modules, which convert our 24V source to and 12V output by adjusting them correctly. The second one is just solved by simply cutting and reusing the original connector.
You might be able to source fitting 24V fans too, but they tend to be noisy. I also used 40x10 fans for the part cooling, but some headroom for more airflow by using the 40x20 instead might come in handy. But so far, my 40x10 seem to be enough too. If you have them already, use them. If not, buy 40x20 instead. Did you use this instructable in your classroom?
Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. To really make a difference, you will need to have ether Nema Stepper Dampers or a Silent Board installed. Its really to no use if you make your fans silent, but the stepper motors sing their song all the time you are printing.
Stepper dampers are dirt cheap, but you might need to buy heatsink and print new mounts too. You cant put one on your extruder or Z-Stepper, so retraction and Z-Hop is still pretty loud. Its nearly a drop-in-replacement and comes with all the bells and whistles you could want. And it makes your steppers quiet, obviously. This step requires you to open the power supply and measure voltage on 2 pins which have either 12V or 24V while its connected to mains voltage V or V!
If you feel uncomfortable doing so, skip this step and leave the PSU as it is. It shouldn't be dangerous, as you measure on cables outside the PSU itself and dont come into contact with the main power, but be warned anyway!
Ender 3 Wiring
Unplug the PSU from power and flip the power switch a few times to discharge the remaining voltage. After that, disconnect the yellow XT60 connector under the heatbed, remove the screws attaching the PSU to the Z-beams and move your printer out of the way for now.
Depending on the model of your PSU, remove the remaining screws attaching the cover with the fan to the rest of the PSU housing. Lift the cover just enough to unplug the fan before trying to remove it completely. Be careful not to touch anything else! Prepare your new printed cover by attaching the bigger fan and fan grill, leave the fan cable as it is for now.
I kept the original airflow direction blowing out on my model, check yours and rotate the fan if needed. Blowing fresh air in seems to be the logical way to cool the PSU, but I guess they have a reason why they let it blow out instead of in. And we dont want it to blow up either, right?